How to crate train a dog

Choosing the right crate

Wire crates (folding metal cage style) are the most popular. Good ventilation, easy to clean, can use a blanket over the top to make it more den-like. Fabric crates are lighter but can be destroyed by an anxious or bored dog. Plastic travel crates provide a more enclosed feeling some dogs prefer.

Size: The dog should be able to stand up, turn around, and lie stretched out. For puppies, use a divider panel to reduce the space to crate-size. Large pups will toilet at one end and sleep at the other if given too much space.

The golden rules before you start

• Never use the crate as punishment. The moment you send the dog to the crate when you're angry, you've poisoned it
• Never force the dog in. Everything goes at the dog's pace
• Build value gradually. Don't close the door until the dog is completely relaxed inside
• Meals in the crate. Feeding in the crate builds positive association faster than anything else

Step-by-step protocol

Stage 1: Introduction (days 1–3)

1. Place the crate in a room where the family spends time
2. Leave the door open
3. Toss treats randomly into the crate. Don't ask the dog to go in, just let them discover the treats
4. Feed meals in front of the crate, then inside (bowl at the entrance, then halfway in, then all the way in)
5. Never close the door at this stage

Stage 2: Comfortable entry (days 2–5)

1. Start encouraging the dog to go in with a treat thrown inside
2. Add a cue word ("crate" or "bed") as they go in
3. Reward every time they enter voluntarily
4. Let them exit freely. Don't close the door
5. Place a high-value chew or Kong inside to build positive association with staying in

Stage 3: First door closures (days 3–7)

1. Once the dog enters and settles, gently close the door for 5 seconds, then open it
2. Gradually extend closed-door time: 10 seconds, 30 seconds, 1 minute
3. Only close the door when the dog is already relaxed and engaged with a chew or Kong
4. Don't make a big deal of opening the door. Neutral, calm release
5. If the dog whines or shows distress, you've moved too fast. Reduce the time

Stage 4: Leaving the room (days 5–14)

1. Dog in crate with door closed, you leave the room for 30 seconds, return casually
2. Build to 1 minute, 2 minutes, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, etc.
3. Only increase if the previous duration was completely calm
4. Use a camera (or phone propped nearby) to check the dog isn't distressed when you can't see them

Night time in the crate

For puppies especially, put the crate in or near your bedroom initially. They settle far faster when they can hear and smell you. Gradually move it to where you want it long-term over several weeks.

Puppies under 12 weeks will likely need to go outside at night. Set an alarm rather than waiting for crying. Crying for the toilet is a sign you waited too long.

Common mistakes

• Moving too fast. Closing the door on day one, leaving for an hour, and then "training" the screaming puppy out of it
• Letting the dog out when they cry. This teaches crying = freedom. Wait for a 10-second quiet pause, then open the door. Don't reward the noise.
• Crating too long. Puppies under 6 months cannot hold their bladder for long. Crating a puppy for 8 hours will result in them toileting in the crate and make crate training much harder.
• Not covering the crate. A blanket draped over three sides creates a den-like atmosphere many dogs find more relaxing

Crating adult dogs

Adult dogs who have never been crated can be trained using the same protocol. It typically takes 2–6 weeks. The process is identical, but adults often move through stages faster than puppies. If you're adopting an adult rescue, ask whether crate training was part of their background.